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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Anyone for Tennis Elbow 8-Jan-2004 At 1:27:54 PM Julian

Message

hey mike how are you? loved the wedding photos, thanks. re crimping; when you crimp, due to biomechanics which are not easy to explain briefly, you have to stabilise your wrist anteriorly (ie on the front). two muscles do this. on the thumb side you have flexor carpi radialis and on the othe you have flexor carpi ulnaris. due to the way your hand is shaped your are forced to stabilise more on the ulnaris side, especially the further you reach to the side. (mmm, i just realised that i dont thik i wrote in the last message that this is specific to medial pathology, not lateral; golfers rather than tennis elbow). most medial eopicondlopathy is related to the ulnaris tendon insertion. open hand does not activate this muscle nearly as much. as such there is less chance of an imbalance being created between the strength of the muscle versus that of the tendon.

sorry, next patient just arrived. best go.

julian