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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

chopping bolts at nowra 3-Mar-2008 At 12:21:02 PM qman

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I dont think it matters if it is bolted or isnt. I would be happy for it or another climb that can be safely protected with gear to remain that way. but now that it is safely bolted and 'the damage is done'. It is better to leave it than further damage the rock by cutting out the bolts.

If you were just doing it for yourself why not use pitons or cheap bolts that will rust away in a few short years, or someother technique that is a short term fix.

"Is there something wrong with just doing something for yourself rather than the masses?"
I absolutely think it is wrong not to consider future ascentists when climbing a new route particularly in a popular area. I think that the FAist has a duty of care to ensure that it is safe and practical for future ascentist.

I dont understand why there is this elitist FA ethic rather than thinking of the wider climbing community.

In general people should respect the FAists wishes and consult them before changes but i dont think there is a magical right that occurs during a FA. and in general we shouldnt deface the rock with bolts more than is necessary but this includes unnecesarily cutting bolts that are prefectly sound and useful.