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Trad routes as projects? 28-Feb-2008 At 9:14:05 AM f_abe

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What would have been an ethical placement would be to have not placed it and run it out on trad like the rest of the line (oh, except for the first bolt, conveniently placed 18 inches to the right of what looked to be a bomber cam slot - gotta hang that red tape from somewhere as my partner for the day said...). No doubt many narrow minded chockstoners will accuse me of having tall poppy syndrome but this is not the case. Neither is it a direct attack on the first ascensionist. It is simply an opinion on some disapointing ethics. A line like this (and it is a hell of a line) doesn't come along too often, and whacking bolts in before climbing it on pre-placed gear (why not just bolt the whole thing?) seems to me to be bad form. At the end of the day I don't really care cos I will never climb it, and people can do with it as they want so long as it makes them happy (hey, I rap in and pre place gear as well but they are definitely not the climbs that that mean the most to me), but there are those out there with the skills and the balls to do it all on trad, but that chance has now been denied. I guess it's all about the tick after all...