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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Red/Head Point ethics 25-Feb-2008 At 1:40:13 PM climbau

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If you have the protection or safeguards in place enroute, then it definately takes away from the "headpoint" ascent. If you climb the route preplacing gear or dangling a rope to clip as pro then I think the ascent is still valid but not as a "headpoint". I think it all comes down to the way that you report your ascent.
It is my understanding that these "headpoint" routes are often rehearsed on top rope many times before the "real" ascent. This perhaps eliminates certain difficulties, but would still leave a higher risk than if the route had regular good protection. It all comes down to being honest with yourself about how you play the game. As long as you don't ruin the nature of the route as it stands.