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General Climbing Discussion

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Compare gyms in Melbourne to Europe 31-Jan-2008 At 9:10:21 PM dreamingof8a

Message

On 31/01/2008 belayslave wrote:
>On 31/01/2008 dreamingof8a wrote:
>>Sorry, but this is bull****. It takes about 15 minutes to strip a route.
>>Put the holds in the dishwasher (a proper industrial one), makes for
>another
>>20 minutes. Setting a route - between 1 and 2 hours , depending on grade
>>(the easier the faster) and type of wall (vertical can be less than an
>>hour even).
>>
>>All you have to block are the two adjacent rows of quickdraws to make
>>it safe enough - that doesn't do too much harm I'd say!
>
>Your timings are pretty accurate IMO, but i think how much you think necessary
>to block off is
>bullS**T. All climbers, whether indoors or outdoors, have seen how easy
>it is for a falling object to
>land well away from its point of origin. a metre and a half (which is
>realistically how close some lines
>of draws are in gyms) is not enough of a barrier to hopefully prevent
>someone getting hit if the setter
>drops a hold/quickdraw/bucket of holds/hex key/maillon/drill/screws/biners
>etc etc.
>
>Not to mention the shock absorbing floors all gyms are now required to
>have. I don't know what the
>City hardrock has, but the floor at Nuna is absolutely lethal when it
>comes to object bouncing off it,
>they can fly completely across the gym. The matting used in several NSW
>and QLD gyms (and
>Altona i think but haven't been there in ages), is different, and doesn't
>have quiet the same elasticity
>as Hardrocks.
>
>I believe setting is best done after hours, or by closing a complete room
>of a gym for a period of time.
>This is how my old home gym in Tassie used to operate and i think it's
>the safest option. Also allows
>the setter to concentrate more and work more effectively not being restricted
>in space, worry as much
>about dropping stuff and being asked questions by punters.

The "block three routes" rule is the one we used in the gym I worked - and it was fully sufficient. I'm not sure about the way routes are set here, we did it with a grigri and a bucket full of holds.

Usually I set routes during the day (being a student can be so nice some times!) or on weekends, never really after 6pm unless the gym was empty.

For the roof section we some sort of crane or whatever you call this (like on the posted pics) and even then all other walls were climable.
To see what I'm talking about click http://kletterwerk.de/40.0.html on the left side you can choose the different sectors.