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General Climbing Discussion

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Compare gyms in Melbourne to Europe 31-Jan-2008 At 7:14:21 PM belayslave

Message

On 31/01/2008 dreamingof8a wrote:
>Sorry, but this is bull****. It takes about 15 minutes to strip a route.
>Put the holds in the dishwasher (a proper industrial one), makes for another
>20 minutes. Setting a route - between 1 and 2 hours , depending on grade
>(the easier the faster) and type of wall (vertical can be less than an
>hour even).
>
>All you have to block are the two adjacent rows of quickdraws to make
>it safe enough - that doesn't do too much harm I'd say!

Your timings are pretty accurate IMO, but i think how much you think necessary to block off is
bullS**T. All climbers, whether indoors or outdoors, have seen how easy it is for a falling object to
land well away from its point of origin. a metre and a half (which is realistically how close some lines
of draws are in gyms) is not enough of a barrier to hopefully prevent someone getting hit if the setter
drops a hold/quickdraw/bucket of holds/hex key/maillon/drill/screws/biners etc etc.

Not to mention the shock absorbing floors all gyms are now required to have. I don't know what the
City hardrock has, but the floor at Nuna is absolutely lethal when it comes to object bouncing off it,
they can fly completely across the gym. The matting used in several NSW and QLD gyms (and
Altona i think but haven't been there in ages), is different, and doesn't have quiet the same elasticity
as Hardrocks.

I believe setting is best done after hours, or by closing a complete room of a gym for a period of time.
This is how my old home gym in Tassie used to operate and i think it's the safest option. Also allows
the setter to concentrate more and work more effectively not being restricted in space, worry as much
about dropping stuff and being asked questions by punters.