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Compare gyms in Melbourne to Europe 31-Jan-2008 At 11:45:37 AM dreamingof8a

Message

On 31/01/2008 Stuey wrote:
>On 31/01/2008 devlin66 wrote:
>> Is it too much to ask that someone who is getting paid
>>about $18 an hour to set routes, to do a couple a day to keep the routes
>>turning over.
>
>But thats providing you can get someone who can set to do that. Theres
>a big difference between a decent routesetter and someone that just comes
>along and chucks stuff up for the sake of getting new routes.

Well, I think u just need someone who climbs a lot in gyms and above a certain level, preferably ON LEAD. On Toprope, you can jump from hold to hold, without taking care whether the move is NICE, EFFICIENT and SAFE. So if such a style is applied to route setting you get what you have in say Hardrock CBD. I used to set routes for more than two years in Germany, we basically put up a new gym that had to be equipped with 200+ routes within a couple of weeks.

It usually takes not more than 1-2hrs to set a route, depending on the difficulty and the terrain. What you then need is a list of rules/guidelines such as
- no reachy moves
- additional footholds to make it possible for climbers of all heights (and real rock usually provides tons of places for you feet, at least in easier routes)
- safe clipping positions at least for the first three quickdraws
- avoid bouldery routes, rather continuous or increasing difficulty towards the top
These are actually roughly the official DAV (German Alpin Club, which runs most of the gyms) rules for routesetters.

I think you don't need "proffessional" route setters, just people that have fun setting routes and who think about what they are doing.

I can't imagine that it is impossible here to find a group of 10 climbers and give them an annual membership for setting at least two route a month each.