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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option Votes Graph
Standard John Long style glove as in his books 9
Just wrap the tape a few times around the mitts 4
Only tape back of hand secured @ wrist and knuckle 8
Cracks! Give me crimps any day!!! 2
Taping is for those who can't jamB!!! 21
Personal variation taping subject to the climb 1

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Crack Addicts

2:14:16 PM
Curious as to how people protect themselves from flesh eating jams.
I usually go for option 2 as I don't have the patience for option 1 and don't like taping around the base of individual fingers for comfort reasons. Also does anyone use some sort of product to make the tape adhere better to the skin?

2:42:06 PM
Depends a little on the rock. Granite I put the effort in, Blueys sandstone just wrap it around a bit.
2:52:00 PM

>Also does anyone use some sort of product to make the tape adhere better
>to the skin?

already pulls the hair of the back of my hands and wrists, although this does mean i can hide among the humans more easily ;o)

3:22:43 PM
As for product to make it adhere better ?, I used to use a bit of chalk on the backs of my hands to
reduce the amount of hair that tape takes with it on removal.
But I have now moved on from that whole tape epic, and use crack climbing gloves, with sticky rubber
and velcro closures, sweet! no ripping the tape off, no messy tape repairs to skanky old gloves, no
hassles getting them on/off for specific crack pitches, all around winners, mad rock make em, as do the
company I bought mine from, "Hand Jammies" from Green Gear, Joshua Tree, CA, 760-366-1890 Got
mine from the Mountain gear site.
These things are the duck nuts for all types of jambing other than ring jambs or finger locks, make rattley
hands a joy rather than a nightmare, and now live in the bag at all times, good luck with the tape! BP

3:48:20 PM
I tried a set of those Hand Jammies a few weeks ago on a nasty roof crack. They worked really well - and didn't slip around on my hands at all. My usual method is the full tape-up job, which i peal off and recycle. Gets a bit festy after a few weeks of constant jamming, and requires endless top-ups of additional tape to keep it together. Tape gloves really do make enduro (ie Frog, Ben Lommond & Buf) crack routes vastly more enjoyable.

Eduardo Slabofvic
3:52:24 PM
Jamming scars are cool.
Fish Boy
4:17:55 PM
You wouldn't catch me dead in a pair of rubber gloves like bombers....unless I was washing up.

4:18:02 PM
BP & CM, I have found the "Jammies" type gloves to catch and be a hindrance when it the crack gets a littlle thinner. I usually only discover the thinness when I am at the point where i can only get my hand in to the Pinky finger extension bone in my hand and am freaking out about slipping out. Plus the wrist straps and finger straps just dig in.

Eduardo Slabofvic
4:19:50 PM
Chicks really dig jamming scars.

4:20:41 PM
i don't climb hard enough to have to bother.

4:42:20 PM
On 18/01/2008 gordoste wrote:
>i don't climb hard enough to have to bother.
I find that's why I have to tape or wear gloves.

Eduardo, I do agree that chicks dig the scars (mostly) but then the novelty wears off and they just wonder why you don't wear gloves or tape. I dunno, funny blokes those sheilas.

4:52:34 PM
On 18/01/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>Chicks really dig jamming scars.

Just don't tell them you like shoving your fist into cracks when you're trying to chat them up.

11:10:39 PM
On 18/01/2008 tnd wrote:
>On 18/01/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>>Chicks really dig jamming scars.
>Just don't tell them you like shoving your fist into cracks when you're
>trying to chat them up.

why not? maybe you'll meet somebody interesting...
12:45:17 AM
Just tell them you prefer finger locking in cracks!!

Phil Box
6:47:23 AM
It is spelt Jamb people, sheesh, get it right.

Eduardo Slabofvic
9:39:53 AM
Jamming scars make you look sophisticated.
10:29:02 AM
So many scars I'm fending off the chicks left right and centre ... at the moment I have them up to my elbows and look up bit more like I've been cutting up than climbing. Maybe the mummy style taping job should be an option?

I recently did Paralax at Buffalo (24 pure steep crack from fat hands to thin fingers) in both hand jammies and tape gloves for comparison. I didn't brave no gloves! Both worked fine. I thought the hand jammies might make the thin hands section more difficult, but I didn't really notice a difference, they feel so solid even on shallow and flaring jams anyway. The wrists didn't get in the way, the bits that curve around the sides are great for fist jams, which my tape gloves don't quite cover. Then I thought I might never be able to go back to tape: being thinner, the jams do occasionaly still hurt, but no, they were fine as well.

I would never just tape around my hands - it's not reusable, puts tape on your palms, doesn't protect as well as gloves. Don't know what John long's gloves look like, but I have all fingers and thumb loops, taped back over the inside so they don't stick to your hand and just wiggle your fingers in and strap them onto the wrist. They have done me well for years, but they do use a lot of tape - making, repairing, strapping on and at $15 a roll, $30 for the gloves starts to look pretty good. You really don't need them for smoother types of rock, or on easy-moderate pitches or the occasional jam here and there. Developing your technique will alleviate most of your problems there. But at Buffalo, Ben Lomand etc, or slippery, flaring things, they make a world of difference.

1:12:47 PM
i love crack! i don't tend to tape mine though as anyone who has seen can testify. ripping hairs out hurts!

Chuck Norris
10:42:28 PM
kneebar scars rock way more than crack scars

8:35:19 AM
Your tape glove style is what i was referring to by The John Long technique.
Parallax is way beefy, good work on doing it twice!!!

I heard that kneebar scars just make you look dodgy :)

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There are 63 messages in this topic.


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