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The Darrens 15-Jan-2008 At 11:39:24 AM cruxmag

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I also just got back from a week of perfect weather in the Darrens. What a place! Superb rock quality, amazing scenery, great locals (and hut!). Nothing disappointed. Its the sort of place where adventure potential is almost unlimited - big rock walls as far as the eyes can see. It's like climbing in the valley of Chamonix but without the tourists, ski-lifts, queues and buildings. I can't rant more about it! The new (2006) guide is excellent, although many of routes at the 'sport crags' of Babylon and Chasm crag are missing due to intense new routing done in the last year. The area suits more the intermiedate to advanced climbers though - with high admin even on the 'sport crags'. Chasm and Babylon are like a granite version of Taipan Wall - scrappy first pitches then amazing 2nd and 3rd pitches. A bit of trad here and there, big runouts occasionally and sometimes not very straightforward anchor setups. Prob best for people redpointing grade 23+ as easier routes are few and far between (and wet).

The big alpine rock faces are amazing - easily on par with anything in Europe and America (but slightly smaller and less steep generally). Reminded me heavily of climbing in the Rocky Mountains near Boulder (Diamond ect). Bolting is excellent generally and views outstanding. If you get the chance and see a weather window then GO FOR IT! If the weather craps out head to the sport crags of Queenstown about 4 hours away - or just head up to the steepness of Little Babylon.