General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
The arbitrary-ness of grades	30-Dec-2007 At 6:42:12 PM	JamesMc
Message
Ewbank explicitly stated in his Blue Mtns guide that the grade takes the level of protection into account. (And I don't think he expected the gear to be pre placed on abseil.) This means that if you take a run-out route, and put some bolts on it, you reduce the grade, just like you would if you chipped some holds on a route that needs a long reach. Also, the grading system is for people who know how to climb. It would be meaningless to say that my mother would find Phantom to be grade 13 or 15, because she doesn't know how to climb. Likewise, someone who doesn't know how to climb slabs needs to learn how before a grade 20 slab will fell like grade 20 to them. JamesMc

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