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General Climbing Discussion

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Onsight FA of 34 / 8c+ / 5.14c 28-Dec-2007 At 8:07:42 PM shamus

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A more important variable I think would be the varying composition of muscle fibres between climbers. Someone who inherently has more oxidative fibres will a) get more out of any O2-enhancing blood doping, b) produce less lactic acid to begin with, and c) be better at endurance climbing. These slower-twitching fibres would be useful for more endurance-style or trad climbing, while people who have more anaerobic fibres will be at an advantage for sport / power climbing or dynamic moves. Muscle oedema could be an issue, but long before that, you'd have to consider ongoing muscle contraction interfering with blood flow. Link with endurance climbs vs power moves with rests? Anaerobic threshold is definitely an issue, but if you cant get any blood going through, the only option once stored O2 is consumed is anaerobic respiration.