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General Climbing Discussion

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Who is responsible for bad belaying? 17-Nov-2007 At 5:36:14 PM certifi

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id like to come to my own deffence here and say that it was not my fault (i was belaying). the music
was too loud at
the gym that night and there was just to many other distractions that particular night. My italian
climbing parter at the
time, sometimes just expects me too know when to take. he takes a quick glance at me and expects
me to know
what that means, at which point he lets go of the wall and drops. after he had made his indesiferable
nod at me, he
let go. i ran backwards to pull in slack and caught his falling mass on the way. after saying this, im not
pointing the
finger at my partner, there were just two many variables like noise, distractions, STUPID PLACMENT
OF DRAWS,
communication break downs and bad technique by my partner. I would also like to point out that he
was NOT six
meters high, he had just reached the fourth clip and was pulling rope to clip himself. the height at
which the draws are
placed at the cbd hardrock are a joke to say the least, it did not help that my climber was pulling rope
into the
system when he fell. I pride myself on good belaying technique and have been lead climbing for
around two years of
solid three night a week training. i also believe my self to be one of the more competent belayers at
the gym. this is
not me talking it up, its mearly pointing out that i believe myself to have good belaying technique, and
believe me
there are some real bad belayers around. i think that after all this it is wrong to say anyone was to
blame. it was a
mixture of deadly (controlable) variables. and you have your facts wrong. case closed

PS Joad mate step back and reevaluate what you have said about me, YES i have been know to
stand along way from the wall, but im under the understanding that some times its good to break the
rules. for example i consider it necisary and safe to step back a little further than against the wall, i
happen to think that visability is the one key factor to good and safe belaying. when your technique or
the climbers safety is at risk it is ok to move back providing the climber is at a safe height to do so. i
think that without correct understanding of my belaying technique you have no right to point the finger
at me and taking a stab at my belaying technique because you don't understand what i am doing. i
take offence to the fact that you think i am a novice climber, having been trained by some of
australias heavy weights and having trained hard and long to improve technique, i think that i deserve
a sorry from your self after your relentless attacks at myself and my ways. no one technique can work
for everybody and i believe that slight re-adjustment of the advised technique is within reason. I firmly
believe im an adiquete belayer as do my two partners. if you dont like it say it to my face instead of
internet bitching about you not liking how i do things, but that doesnt mean i will listen. I think that the
staff need better training and more understanding of leadclimbing. some didnt even know what it is
untill i explained it to them. I used to be regular at nunawading untill i moved house and i think that
people like taruna need to come to the city more often. i dont think that the staff are capable of
checking off lead climbers, having witnessed one guy trying to tell two guys who clearly had been
climbing longer than he was alive how to lead. stop hiding under an ip address and come and talk to
me personally, thats just how id prefer to talk to you. as i said earlier it was noones fault except fates.

I guess what I'm trying to get at is that if neither the belayer, climber or gym staff really know what
they are doing, what should be done to rectify this. i think your right about the staff but that you have
me completly misundderstood.

i also dont care if you think my spelling is bad