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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Single Bolt to mark Projects Unacceptable 31-Oct-2007 At 8:16:24 AM jgoding

Message

Hi,

my 2 cents worth is that if the line cannot be proven to be decent then best to just leave it alone. I disagree with rodw in this instance "Just bolt it and have fun".

Better to rap over it, clean it, top rope it and basically fully suss it out and find out if it's worthwhile putting in the effort and financial cost of equipping. Better to walk away if the route is inconsistent or too hard or just poor climbing etc rather than working that out once you've whacked some bolts in (probably in poor positions I might add if you haven't actually tried climbing the routes). I am also a fan of getting others to try the route on top rope before putting in any bolts to ensure that what you feel are good positions are verified. Getting someone short to verify these positions has proven very useful as an inch or two lower to a taller person does not mean much, but to a short ass (no offense to any short asses out there - I know some very nice short ass climbers!) it can mean you might have to pull the crux and then clip the bolt, so it can be a very different experience for tall people versus short people.

All that said - if it's a good line and you've sussed it out don't be put off by anyone. Go for it. Bolt the good routes and they will come. The more consideration you put into where you position your bolts may well have a big impact on how many people enjoy repeating your route.

This is by the way an excellent cliff. For those of you who have not been there I highly recommend it.