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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Easy Cracks in the Bluies 13-Sep-2007 At 11:22:37 AM Benno

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If you're looking for well-protected easy cracks then I'd highly recommend the Wolgan. Granted I've only been to the coke ovens and the coalmines but I saw no evidence to support the idea that routes in the Wolgan are poorly protected chossfests (Iactually think it may be a rumour spread by people who climb in the Wolgan to stop it from becoming too popular). Although I've been climbing for a couple of years I'm relatively new to the trad game and so was a bit apprehensive about spending a long weekend there recently but I absolutely loved it. Climbs that I did/saw other people doing that fit what you're after include Barrel Organ* (13), Absolutely Sweet Marie* (14), Organ Grinder/Monkey Business** (14/15), Cactus*** (18), The Knuckle*** (19). There's quite a few more that sound suitable listed in the guidebook but I don't have personal knowledge of that I haven't listed. Not only will you be able to get in a lot of jamming practice on the nice long routes that typify this area but I can guarantee you'll be inspired by the awesome lines on these cliffs, the beauty of some of the harder cracks like TDM and Transitizer will definitely have you cooming back for more. I personally reckon that TDM is one of the best climbs I have ever done. Check it out, I promise you won't be disappointed.

Benno