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General Climbing Discussion

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ADVISE ON LOWERING FROM A BOLT. 10-Sep-2007 At 3:26:19 PM SHANESHAW

Message

On 10/09/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>On 10/09/2007 SHANESHAW wrote:
>>I like what you said mate, I suppose I could have used a bolt plate and
>>a screw gate but I used the 2 draws because I didn't want one to fail
>so
>>I used 2 and reversed them as the books say.
>
>If you trust a screwgate as your absiel or belay biner, then you should
>be able to trust one as a single
>point lower-off.
>
>> The bolt was a glued in bolt
>>and was a bomber anchor
>
>How do you know it was a bomber bolt? Did you test it fully? Good looking
>bolts can be bad. The
>surface glue may have cured but the glue under the surface may have never
>set. Always be vigilent
>about lowering off a single bolt.
>
>> and I lowered my partner down slowly and with no
>>jerking. The same when he lowered me .
>
>I think my understanding of physics is that lowering actually DOUBLES
>the amount of wieght applied
>to the anchor, as you are now hanging two people off the single bolt.
>This is bad!

I was doing s tanding belay from behind a large boulder so my weight was not on the bolt. if the bolt had failed when i was lowering I was in a position where i would be able to hold and lower him.