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General Climbing Discussion

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The Darrens 17-Jul-2007 At 10:29:37 PM evan

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I lived in Dunedin for a few years and got down to the Darrens fairly regularly. Great place when the weather is good, and spectacular when its not, the granite walls become enormous waterfalls. Homer hut is the place to stay. Great rock at the Chasm, climbing from 19 up, bolts and trad, haven't climbed at Babylon but heard there is some moderate stuff there now. Alpine rock routes - only did Bowen Allen on Moirs Mate. Not for want of trying. Approaches require a bit of local knowledge. I've heard the new guidebook is good, old one was minimalist. Keen to get back though to get on rock routes on Moir and Barriers Knob though will need to spend a decent amount of time there to get weather. Would need weeks, and to be prepared for hut fever that can last weeks.

I mostly ended up doing alpine missions picking of summits. Best trip by far was a 3 day solo trip, rarely dropping below 1200m, and traversing 4 peaks all around Homer Hut. From Homer hut go straight up onto Crosscut west peak with a bivvy there (or into the weather station if its open) , then over Marion and Barrier to Gertrude Saddle and a further bivvy, then over Traverse Pass, to McPherson then down to Homer Saddle. Absolutely fantastic. I'd thoroughly recommend it - soloable with axe and crampons, escapable at mid point, and mind boggling views all the way. Could be done in 2 days.

As for Sabre - heard mixed reports from various mates. I once had vague ideas about winter climbing but never got on anything decent. Was a really good article in the NZ alpine club mag 'The Climber' fairly recently. Did spend a fair bit of time in the pub at the Sound. Just being in the Darrens is a good time, its a magical place.

Evan