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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Removing bolts to create trad paradise 14-May-2007 At 12:55:06 PM MR. REDZONE
"the sad truth is that you can't even rely on crusty beard-strokers these days. I would classify as one of them (albeit clean-shaven since 1983) but am among the handful of climbers who have placed bolts on abseil at Rosea (2 bolts, 1 peg 1986).
I think that the average climber would have a better experience of Rosea if a few existing climbs had rap stations installed at 40m. To mention a couple: Meshach 16+ and Ma Cherie 14ish have fantastic first pitches but the finishing pitches are dirty and vegetated. It's hard to make a case for repeating these climbs in their current condition and, environmentally the top pitches should be left alone.
I don't like this proposal because it is too dogmatic. Yes, respect Rosea and don't slam in bolts everywhere but please allow space for the essence of of some of these old climbs to live. That's a bit wifty-wafty but I hope you get what I mean. "

this man is genius.

I will vote for him at the next election.

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