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General Climbing Discussion

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Removing bolts to create trad paradise 8-May-2007 At 12:59:53 PM oweng

Message

On 8/05/2007 Doug Bruce wrote:
(im assuming almost all of these bolts would have
been placed on lead).

>This is a big assumption, Owen. I think that a lot of the old carrots,
>especially on relatively steep ground, were placed either on abseil, by
>traversing in, or by some other devious means.
>The idea of a bolt-free crag is an interesting one but in regards to Rosea
>I am more inclined towards the notion of bolts well but sparsely-placed,
>leaving them in place where they make a climb viable at the grade, and
>finally re-bolting where a route has been opened but the original bolting
>job was crap or the bolts have been in place so long that they are dubious
>at best.

Gday Doug. Your probably right about some dubious methods being used in the past. I guess I was trying to suggest a means to 1) justify retaining the existing bolted routes 2) not discourage the putting up of big routes with the odd bolt where needed and 3) not open the door for wholesale bolting (i.e sportsroutes).