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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Renaming/rebolting aid route/attracting a girl! 2-May-2007 At 12:46:58 PM Skip-Skip

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My friend WOULD be doing the first ascent, there is no style in the way it has already been done as it is not a free route. IMO a route which is 90% bolted/fixed protection should be all bolted. The main purpose of sounding like a dick with this post is to question the status quo. Victorian climbing ethics are considered laughable by much of the climbing world. I had to apologise to some visiting Austrians for recommending a so called sport climb to them on Taipan when they had to retreat from it. Our problem is that , unlike other countries that people cite as ethically pure like the UK, we do not have climbing areas that are distinguished by their style. Our "sport climbing" crags are a hotch-potch of bolts, fixed slings and the odd cam. What a joke. I love english crags where you can go somewhere and do whichever style of climbing takes your fancy. I have climbed extensively on Grit and fully respect the style because it is totally congruent. Same with the limestone. I believe there should be a serious debate here on our climbing areas and the styles that are excepted.