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General Climbing Discussion

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THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM 19-Apr-2007 At 12:19:43 PM shiltz

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Tim, I think there is a general desire to place only as many bolts as are really required (cost, effort and aesthetics). Clipping the first bolt is so common in sport climbing that new routers assume it will be done and bolt accordingly. I don't hesitate to stick clip the first bolt if I'm worried about my ankles and don't feel that it invalidates my lead. I haven't ever clipped the second or third bolt or used a stick mid-climb but it isn't uncommon.

I also think that top-roping is a perfectly valid way of climbing. It always seems a bit of a waste to bang in bolts for a 15m route that is easily accessed from above without erosion concerns. Warragul Rocks is a great example. We top roped some routes down the right hand end of the upper tier a long time back now. I was really surprised to see in the latest guide that they had been bolted and lead.