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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Australian Ethics 17-Apr-2007 At 12:48:13 PM cragrat

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I have retro bolted quite a few of my own mixed pro routes.

Often they have had one, not necessarily good, bit of gear in a predominantly bolted route that was often a beta placement that I knew about from cleaning and bolting. Good routes not getting climbed and now popular.

The example mentioned about removing bolts is that old British ethic where they are trying to protect their very bolt free ethos. It usually meant that if you could climb well above the grade of the route with the offending item you would chop it thereby rendering it sanitised to those who had that safety margin - not those actually climbing that grade. Often the problem when Grade 25 climbers put up sub 20 routes for example.