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General Climbing Discussion

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Arno Ilgner Clinic - 17th April 07 16-Mar-2007 At 10:23:36 PM brough

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I can see how the clinic may be helpful in the context of physical performance and movement. I mean, psychology is an important part of all sports and a critical part of elite performance-based sports. Athletes "psyche up", get in the "zone", are "on fire", "forget themselves", are "so focussed they weren't aware of anyone else in the race". Bruce Lee summed it up with a quote (I'm going from memory) "the greatest possible hindrance to the proper execution of physical activity is consciousness of self". I agree with the quote. Obviously a clear mental focus is required for proper performance. Tiger Woods has undergone intense mental training and "programming" since a very early age. For example, two golfers may be very physically alike, have the same experience but one consistently nails birdies, the other chokes - it's a mental thing.

In a climbing context, I've blown many a boulder problem because just at that last fraction of a moment before I connect with the hold, uncontrollably, a thought has entered my mind and it's affected how I position my hand, or leg, or something, and I've blown it.

All my worst bingles while lead climbing on naturallly protected or run-out routes I can attribute to key factors such as inexperience, lack of stamina (pumping out while trying to place gear) and poor route selection (related to inexperience).

The long and short of this is I speculate that this may be something that may be more beneficial for the performance/movement specific end of the spectrum and less about the fear/controlling fear, end of the spectrum.

I think Mentzy summed it up - experience, stamina, strength = confidence = control of fear and anxiety in a stressful situation. Following on from that, if I'm scared shitless, it's likely for a good reason.

That said, I should really sign up for this clinic and then I'll know what the deal is.

cheers brough