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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Tying togethr 2 ropes of diff diameter. Best knot? 15-Jan-2007 At 7:25:07 PM sticky
Message
On 15/01/2007 The good Dr wrote:
>I use a figure 8 instead of an overhand knot. It is less prone to undoing
>under cyclic loading and also presents a similar profile to the overhand
>knot.

It was my impression that testing had shown that figure eights were more likely to invert and roll than the EDK, and becuase the knot is larger, it required fewer 'rolls' to undo past the tail.

Edit - These are some sites I have seen about it now I have looked.

http://www.rockandice.com/accidents/accidents.127.html

http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/one-sided_overhand/
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.climbing/browse_thread/thread/1c0087a2b94da990?hl=en&lr=&safe=off&ic=1
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One-sided_overhand_bend

There are 13 replies to this topic.

 

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