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General Climbing Discussion

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CRUX Magazine Issue #2 15-Jan-2007 At 12:55:24 PM kp

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On 15/01/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>HELL YEAH, at the sugestion of my partner, cos he left the chalk bag, that
>had the bolt brackets in it,
>round at the main face.
>He was leading it first, and the first bolt was a carrot a long way up,
>on a bad landing with no plates or
>chalk, on smooth slopey holds, so I cut him a little slack, and we stick
>clipped the second bolt,a
>ringbolt. I gladly agreed to this, as it protected the leader, and it
>was what my partner wanted to do.
>Obviosly if any of you climb with Fab boy, be aware that he is young and
>does'nt have the experience
>or awarness that comes with alot of time on the rock and he will probably
>push you into a bad situation
>by giving you grief for showing some caution, if you feel the need to
>switch to another partner that is
>actually watching your back, I will totally understand.
>PS fresh boy, wires will only work on a carrot when it's a verticle face
>with no outward force on a
>fall.Not in a roof with downward forces pulling the wire over the bolt
>head.
>Infact I have been guilty of creating a route that requires a stick clip
>start in Thailand.
>The start is a very powerfull dyno off a knob and a fist lock, 1.8m to
>a pinch, then the crux moves
>start, with no real cliping stance untill after the crux, about 8m up
>through an overhanging wave of
>rock.
>So my partner and I decided to make the start a stick clip to protect
>future climbers.
>It is an exellent climb, we called it Kung foo conection and gave it 7c+.
>but if flush boy wants to climb my route, and clip off the pinch hold
>after the dyno.....well, I'm not his
>partner so I would say HELL YEAH, go for it fat boy

Is that solid 25 in aus grades ?