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General Climbing Discussion

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Touched by the Void 6-Dec-2006 At 3:51:58 PM dagdamor

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Well you said all advice was welcome, so here's a short run down of my feelings on the topic. As a bit of background, I've spent a reasonable chunk of my last three summers in NZ doing (or trying to do) the alpine thing, and am heading back this summer. My first season was a TMC, my second season was 1-1 with a guide, and then some attempted independent climbing (got weathered out), and last Jan I climbed with a friend as an amateur party.

First off - TMCs or the equivalent: TMCs are cheap, which makes them attractive. I did mine with Alpine Guides Mt. Cook (hellooo 2003/4 TMC5) and had a great time - we had Kelman hut to ourselves for almost the whole trip, one of the windows got sucked out in a big storm, and our unofficial motto was "All bleeding stops eventually". You get the picture. Everyone on my TMC was keen, and we all got along rather well.

The flip side of this is that the guides can't assume any knowledge, and are constrained by the least experienced/competent person. Sure they can split up into subgroups, but there is only so much scope for that. This means you will spend quite some time learning knots, prussiking, doing crevasse rescue, learning to self arrest etc. All worthwhile activities, all things you need to know, but they're not climbing - and many you can practice before you head for the hills. Unless you have time afterward to climb independently, the knowledge won't stick (well, probably not as well as you'd hope), because you're not involved enough in what you're doing. If I'd returned for my second season as part of an amateur party I would have felt under prepared.

1-1 (or 1-2): Hiring a guide 1-1 or 2 is obviously likely to be a bit more expensive. The upshot of this is that you get an experience and teaching that is tailor made to you. If your rope skills etc. are squared away, then you can get right into learning the things that are unique to alpine climbing, the decision making processes, etc. . We spent the better part of ten days up in Pioneer, and again we had the hut pretty much to ourselves. Highlights of the trip were a grade 5 ice route on Mt. Mallory, and the NW couloir on Lendenfeld. Throughout the trip there was constant commentary on why we were doing things the way we were, how you might do things differently as an amateur party, and so forth. If you can afford it, this as the way to go IMO. Cost is the only possible drawback.

I certainly recommend the guide I climbed with; if anyone wants his details PM me.

DM