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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Todd Skinner - Dies on Leaning Tower Yosemite 1-Nov-2006 At 4:59:43 PM cragrat

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If you are going to use this set up ( I am a above the device person) the method of use advocated in the UK is to extend the belay device with a sling off the belay loop (say 30cm) and attach the french prussick on the rope below it to the belay loop. This is way stronger than off a leg loop and will never ride up into the ATC.

I have seen a leg loop that wasn't buckled come undone. The only thing that stopped the young fella plummeting to his doom was the prussick wedged into his ATC. It was on the leg loop that came undone.

The other thing they found in teh UK was that an unconscious person would hang upside down and the hip with the attached prussick off the leg loop would get into a position where it could release by contact with the ATC.

Try rapping with wet double ropes on a less than vertical route with a prussick below !! Admittedly it has a place and for me its free hanging raps. If you are going to pass a knot you might as well have it above as well and it is also harder to rap off the end of your rope.