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Crap Vic bolting policies 16-Oct-2006 At 4:06:01 PM The Keeper

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Although Scott Milton commented on the "magic and mystery" of some Aussie bolting exploits in Gripped- in the end he was able to come to an equilibrium with the situation. To my way of thinking it is a matter of personal responsibility - when you hop on a route be prepared for anything (remember the Boy Scout motto - "BE PREPARED" - in the end you yourself make the call on whether something is adequate and whether it is worth trusting - your trust in your climbing comrades, technology, mother nature is embedded in that to one degree or another - it is up to you how much you weight the decision by those factors - it may vary from situation to situation. In the end all permanent fixtures should be suspect until proven otherwise - the same with attributes of the rock itself - flakes, jugs, etc. Nothing is too constant - change is. Recall in aid climbing the idea is to bounce test things before committing when you can - whilst you may not be able to do it at all times trad or sport climbing - where you can it is a bloody good idea. I have given a love tap to what looked like a bomber chunk of rock only to have it rock in its setting - it was cratering stuff!
I would take the gear that would be called for in a guide or some group or individual beta and then add a few extra pieces for "surprises" - a few ounces of precaution might save a serious epic or some high drama. Aliens have their place (even those shy, innocent Canadian ones) - but I do recall some recent discussion on Supertopos about
some failure issues with the things -proving yet again that the life (and rope ) you lead is you own. Be smart out there.
If you don't want the pieces to walk - stick a sling on them to prevent rope from moving them around - pretty standard - and a few slings over the shoulder is not going to inhibit your ascendence too much. You can always practice Inuit string figures with them as you visualize climbing a Baffin Big Wall - during a belay station lunch break - whatever. Or you can oppose the piece with another so that it is prevented from walking. Lots of options. Or don't 'leave your bolt gun in town" - albeit it would not make me too excited to tote one of the bloody things up some heinous route.

Some art talent above - could add a certain spice to the new Crux mag. We need good
climbing art in Aussie to go along with your commonwealth heritage - check out
www.tamiknight.com . Looks to be a bunch of Aussies inland from the big pond - maybe Girraween - talking about bolting strategies! :) Climate change = raised sea levels - are those incoming whitecaps in the background?! :)

Not that I intend on meeting that revolving hanger anytime soon but evidence looks like it needs to be fixed before it creates an epic.

Moral of the story is to not emit "unwarranted overconfidence" similar to fighter pilots and MDs - the odds catch up with you sooner or later.