I still think that climbs, especially trad climbs, are still graded as Ewbank intended. I think that a look at new route descriptions in ARGUS would show that this is still the case. We still consider protection when we grade our new routes (eg Curiosity Crag, The Flat Iron and Graham's Creek). We also include appropraite words like bold, runout etc in the description. This is an important part of the grading. Bolted climbs (sport or mixed) probably aren't an issue as bolt(s) have been placed to make the protection safer.
Michael |