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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Route Setting 27-Jun-2006 At 10:57:25 PM belayslave

Message

Hi Bill,
Dalai said a lot of it...

IMO route setting is something that, a) takes a long time to master, and b) is affected by the amount of
outdoor climbing you do. I think that the best sequences and holds are those that are found outdoors.

My way of route setting is to put holds on the wall, look at the holds and ask myself "Do they look like a
ladder?" if not, then cool, set the next move, ensuring it's not the same as the last. You've got a decent
sized wall by the sounds of it so make sure you use it with traverses and zig-zag problems, using
underclings, side pulls, gastons etc as Dalai suggested.

Just keep doing it, get some friends round and watch how they go about setting problems.
The gym i used to train in back in Hobart had no fixed problems. All the bouldering caves simple have a
random splattering of holds and you make your own up. I think this is the best way of going, it promotes
creativity for every session and the comradary you get from having a group of people working on creating
and climbing one problem is fantastic.

Enjoy :)