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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

advice for canada 12-May-2006 At 9:41:46 AM ant

Message

On 7/05/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>Hey Ant, 5.6 is pushing your lead grades at the moment, but. Eh?
>

I was pulling on gear the whole way up ;-)

Seriously though Owen, I really enjoyed this route. My notes from 2001 are:

"We headed up scree to the base of the peak, and moved left until a point in the sun where Hans needed to piss. There we racked up, put on rock shoes and scrambled up to a 2 bolt belay (about 50 metres).

At that point, Dan lead off, following Hans and Alan. So route finding was not an issue. We alternated leads, and as it turned out, I think that I got the best pitches. All belays were bolted, and varied in length from 20 to 45 metres. There is alot of fixed gear, so only a small rack would be required (up to a #2 Camalot).

The crux was an overhang about 5 metres up from a belay, which I climbed on the left. The sweetest pitch though was further towards the top. It was a left facing dihedral about 45 meters long. Nice slab moves and alot of fixed pitons.

We summited and scrambled back down to the car, following a cute blondie with killer legs. Nachos and brews in Canmore afterwards

7 to 8 hours car to car."