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General Climbing Discussion

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Burnley: 30 degree wall OPEN 3-May-2006 At 11:53:27 AM climbingjac

Message

Dear climbers,

The first 45 degree wall routes are scheduled for routsetting this weekend.

Please be sure to list any feedback regarding the routes on the 30 degree wall prior to this weekend so we can ensure we set suitable routes on the 45 wall.

Feedback can be positive or negative.

Examples of some feedback we have received so far, and what we've done about it are as follows:

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Re: a hold at the top of the pink route

Issue: "I found that my fingers got stuck in that sidecling, and I thought that might be a bit ugly if I fell and my fingers couldn't evacuate from the hold"

Resolution: We rotated the hold a bit so that the pocket was pointing downwards a little, such that fingers can "fall out" of the pocket during a fall.

Re: reachiness of moves

Issue: Some climbers reporting certain moves being a bit reachy, even for a person who is not short.

Resolution: These people are actually happy with this variety, as being taller, they often find themselves squashed up on routes in general. Short people and people with less ability to generate solid body tension have been placed on the routes to test whether in general, a climber can sort themselves out by shifting the feet etc. Decision made to leave routes as is for the moment pending any further feedback. Additional routes to be placed on the wall will be set less reachy in order to provide variety in techniques required to climb on the 30 degree wall.

During routesetting process

Issue: "A big undercling/dropknee combo would be awesome right there!"

Resolution: Such a move is not suitable high up on the wall, as due to the body positioning intiated, it is impossible for the climber to get into a suitable landing stance during a fall. These techniques are very important during climbing, and we'd like people to be able to learn them at Burnley, so we'll keep these sorts of moves close to the ground.

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Please lodge all feedback here!!

Regards,

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project