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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

scary self detaching bolt plates 26-Apr-2006 At 8:25:11 AM climbau

Message

On 26/04/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>Had a hanger/quickdraw fall off bolt 1 of Ruddy Norry @ the Glen today.
>Thats one route that needs
>rings!
It's amazing how times change. This route was rebolted with carrots, and at the time there was no issue (apart from The Glen being a pure sport crag and a climb gets rebolted with SSGI's?!). I climbed this route quite regularly with various bolt plate and carabiner combos and never had an issue. Maybe the whole smaller, lighter, faster direction that climbing is taking is outpacing the fixed pro (i.e the SSGI's). Are we going to have to carry several size plates on routes or does the climb description now have to state the bolt shaft/head sizes used?? Most likely there has to be a standardised bolt size to use, as it seems that new routers are just using what ever is cheapest/easiest to get hold of (which is understandable). And climbers need to have their Sport QD's and their Trad/Mixed QD's