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what rope for equalising anchors??

spax74

7-Apr-2006
11:52:00 AM

do you reckon a 6mm would be enough?

Eduardo Slabofvic

7-Apr-2006
3:32:12 PM

spectra

belayslave

7-Apr-2006
11:18:14 PM

6mm in theory has the strength, generally for my cordelettes i go for 7mm minimum due to breaking
strength. 8mm obviously even better but you are looking at bulkier and heavier.

Careful with spectra, it doesn't have the superior strength it advertises when it is shock-loaded as is a
common scenario in an anchor setup. static loading on spectra leaves no doubt it is definifitely stronger.

patto

8-Apr-2006
2:38:39 AM

Unless your falling on the anchor on a sling/static line the anchor wont get shock loaded. Presumably your falling on the anchor with a dynamic rope so there is no real shock loading.

However I do agree with you that spectra is overrated.

gfdonc

9-Apr-2006
2:21:05 PM

This is the definitive reference:
http://www.amga.com/ComparativeStrengthTest.pdf
Have a careful read, understand that the impact of knotting and other real-world factors on the system negates any advantages of Spectra, then go buy some 7mm nylon.

spax74

9-Apr-2006
2:40:43 PM

well after a good look at the drop test, i agree that a 7mm nylon is one of safest one, and still a third the price of the spectra cord...
thanks for that mates.

howzithanging?

9-Apr-2006
8:41:25 PM

i herd the new rope to use is some sort of sailing rope... it is forsale at natimuk climbing shop... i've herd its stronger and lighter than spectra

cruze

10-Apr-2006
9:20:42 AM

On 9/04/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>This is the definitive reference:
> http://www.amga.com/ComparativeStrengthTest.pdf
>Have a careful read, understand that the impact of knotting and other
>real-world factors on the system negates any advantages of Spectra, then
>go buy some 7mm nylon.
>

...except the bulkiness of nylon. Spectra is great cause its less bulky and even better if you get it from an unnamed outdoor store that misread the label and sold you two spectra cordelettes for the price of 2 5mm nylon cordelettes. much cheaper...

Phil Box

10-Apr-2006
1:10:59 PM

Since the great controversy in regards to the equalisation of anchors thread on rc.com I am becoming increasingly leaning towards simply using the rope to equalise the anchor.

I'm putting my spectra anchor equalisers away. They are far to stiff for the purpose that they are being put towards. I would rather have as much stretch as possible in my anchor setups.

kieranl

10-Apr-2006
8:19:23 PM

I've always found cordelettes a pain, probably because I'm sloppy and can't make a neat bundle of a cordelette to carry on my harness, and only used them to make changing over belays simpler if I was leading each pitch. When swapping leads I prefer to tie in with the rope(s) - and I usually climb on doubles.

jjobrien

13-Apr-2006
10:44:43 PM

I bought a bit of Vectram, I think it's called, from the sailing rope importer that I go to for other stuff. The guy told me it's a bit stronger than spectra and has twice the melting point. Spectra is very low. He said peolpe just keep asking for spectra but it's not the gear anymore, it's this new stuff, vectram.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

18-Apr-2006
1:55:29 PM

>what rope for equalising anchors??

bungy cord

heh, heh, heh :)

There are 12 messages in this topic.