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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Victorian Re-Bolting. Do you agree with them? 10-Mar-2006 At 11:45:17 AM Jonesy

Message

hmmm mixed reactions....

>I believe the responsibility for the scaring left on Snowblind lies on
>yourself and monteiths head.

That's a crock - if you chop a bolt you should have the decency to at least patch the mess.

>If it was not for the discussion on this web
>site (not concensus of greater climbing community) the route would never
>have been retrobolted.

Absolutely right.

>What did you think of the original peg? Have you even done the route?
>The peg was always average and not to be fallen onto (slumped maybe).

Dead right - i wouldn't have fallen on that peg in a million years. Waited until I was sure I wouldn't fall before I did the route. Went something like this --> climbed up, placed a few bits, clipped the peg, downclimbed for a rest. People don't seem to do that any more, but it should be standard practice especially at a place like araps (short routes & hard cruxes). Clip and go sucks.

>The bomber runners were what protected the moves, not the peg. If you cant
>see those runners then you have no business being up there in the first
>place.

Spot on. Which raises the issue - if the peg has ripped, and for the most part it was worthless anyway. Why don't we just climb the route without any fixed protection? Let's improve on the style of the 1st ascent, sans bolt, sans peg?

This whole thing has really degenerated since I checked the forum last. I can't believe the proposition of retro-bolting H's routes on Taipan has been raised. Please don't drag us down that road!