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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option

Votes

Graph

Never - I aim for maximum re-sale price.

Once or twice over my entire climbing career.

I rest on gear occasionally but have never fallen.

Rarely, however I have taken a fall onto trad gear

51%

Once every couple of climbing trips.

27%

Every climbing trip.

Almost every climb.

I love whipping onto RPs &zero cams on every climb

Topic Date User

How often do you fall onto your own trad gear? 17-Jan-2006 At 9:50:15 PM JamesMc

Message

On 17/01/2006 Andaroo wrote:
>Only had 1 fall on my own placements and fell 15metres to the ground when
>the undercammed TCU pulled out and I got zipped from the ground up
>....
>Someone wrote that they where concerned that they fell on an overcammed
>cam ?? I'm under the impression that overcammed is much better for holding
>power but obviously much harder to clean ??? any comments ?? If you look
>at the Metolious "range finder cams" you'll see the green section is pretty
>cammed up..
>

More likely the TCU came out because of the shape of the cams, not because they were undercammed. The cam angle of TCUs is too big, or at least it is on my old itsy bitsy little ones that I don't use any more becasue I can't be bothered carrying gear that won't reliably hold a fall. In really smooth rock (Arapiles) you can pull them straight out by hand with a bit of wriggling.

James Mc