General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
Havachatwithhexy...	2-Jan-2006 At 4:38:29 PM	The HEX
Message
--------------------------- Mikey lamented: >Understand, if you think ring bolts won’t become the same dated article 20-30 years >from now you need to broaden your vision. They will become even more of an eyesore >to your kids or grandkids than pins are to you now... ...................................... >Ask yourself when you put up that new route, can this be done in the best style of the >day? You will only fool yourself if you charge ahead and grid bolt the route... Errrrrrr ... not clear , Mikey ... I woulda thought that ' ... the best style of day...' , IS to ' ... charge ahead and grid bolt the route ...' Hopefully 2000&6 will be a better 'day' :-) .............................. >The next evolution for climbing will be to remove bolts from routes returning them to >respectable standards. An inevitable contrast to today’s adding of bolts, bringing a >climb down to a mainstream playground. An embarrassing thought to have one’s first >ascent done in better style, by someone else. In this wonderful world of change it is >only a matter of time... C'mon Mikey ... thats like saying if someone climbs pitch 2 of The Free Route on the Totem Pole, and only clips 3 of simeyz ~10 bolts, then they have climbed it in ' better style' ... simey takes time-out from flipping mung-bean&apricot-pancakes @ his cafe, to explain : '...I spent a fair bit of time bolting the second pitch and making sure the clips were okay for shorter folk. I remember Steve complaining that I was taking too long and faffing around, but I really wanted to get it right. I could have easily climbed the thing with half the number of bolts (I ended up placing ten), but I always bolt things for the ground-up climber. One of my pet-hates is people creating ridiculously run-out climbs after rap-inspection...'

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