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General Climbing Discussion

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Araps Rebolting 24-Dec-2005 At 11:58:13 AM julian

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Shaun, I hear your point. And I apologise for coming across in a patronising manner. You are right, that was un-called for.

You have taken a snide shot at Chris for what reason. Do you know him? It just seemed like a sideways method of saying exactly what you have just said very succinctly. That said, I humbly accept you criticism.

I think what Chris is trying to say, albeit not well delivered, is that the route in question has been changed from its original style, in the sense of boldness, or whatever else is encompassed by the term ' finer', and that this has diminished it for those who enjoy that style of climbing. This includes me.

Climbing protection, or safety as such, is becoming homogenous, and this is being retrospectively applied to routes that have had many ascents in there old incarnation. Why? It means there are fewer routes for people like Chris and myself to enjoy.

And if go and do a first ascent in a style that I enjoy, is it going to be 'homogenised' 10 years down the track because somebody wants there grandmother to enjoy it as well?

I agree that replacing the peg in this instance is a difficult predicament. How do you replace a piece of dodgy fixed gear???? But try and see it from Chris’s perspective in that his experience has now being marred. It is not the same route. Just because a route does not appeal to the consumer masses, it does not validate changing it into something more palatable, which in this case it has. Logically, it is equally valid to go the other direction, although probably less popular.

Climbing is largely a mental sport in one way or another. Staying focused in light of facing a large fall is a formidable skill, and applies whether the bolt is at you knee or 5m below, or if you are unsure whether the gear will hold etc etc. This is just one way of pushing your limit. And you are right; it is no more valid than somebody who does not like this style of climbing.

The point here is not what a greater form of climbing is. What is at issue is the changing of a route from one style to another.

Climbing encapsulates many different styles, none of which is more valid than another. I for one would like to keep it that way.

Kindest regards

Julian