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Araps Rebolting / Kachoong Retrobolted! 20-Dec-2005 At 2:49:50 PM Jonesy

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I was in Nati for a flying visit last week and visited some old favorites out at Araps. Just gotta say that some of the rebolting and RETROBOLTING that's going on out there really concerns me. While I totally agree that shitty old bolts should be replaced by bomber (preferably stainless glue-in's) and I absolutely applaud the time and dedication of the people doing the replacing, it just seems like preserving a sense of history should also be considered. Especially at a place with such a rich and wonderous history as Arapiles.

A specific example of the sanitization that I saw was on Mind Arthritis on the Pharos - an amazing route that has to be one of the top 5 pitches at the Mount. I fully agree that this route needed re-equipping, but the replacment of the final PEG should be reconsidered. When onsighting the route, getting to the peg was so exciting as it looked completely bomber from below, but after reaching it you realised that it would only hold body weight and that you'd have to climb swimmingly for the top with your heart in your mouth! While being very engaging, this was infact completely safe as you could take a 40m fall into space from that position and not hit a thing (in reality the fall would be less than 8m). To replace the peg with a bolt (and incidentally remove it completely) destroys the compelling finish and much of the interest of the route.

I think it's important to acknowledge that this route was done at time when "boldness was back" and the likes of Carrigan and the Shepards were laying it down. Treading in the footsteps of those preceding us is one of the things that makes climbing so great. When you go and do these routes in the same style as Barber, Morehead, Sorenson or Law, you get to know these visionaries and are privileged to enjoy the same experience as them. For example, why not try leaving the friends on the ground and climbing some of Barber's routes on hexes and nuts? Respect.

By changing the nature of routes like this I worry that we are ignoring our responsibility and failing to preserve those great footsteps and preventing future generations of climbers from walking those paths. Similarly all of Claw's artistic implants have extracted from Slopin Sleazin to be repalced by homogenized rings. Boring. For sure re-equip, but leave the odd old bit in to be marvelled at like some sort of hanging museum.

So then there's also the RING issue..... what's wrong with a few glued in stainless carrots? Debutantes and Centipedes looks atrocious with those stinking rings poking out and is so much easier now that you don't have to place the hanger. For me, the experience of climbing this route has been lessened.

Thoughts?