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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Belayer knows best 6-Dec-2005 At 2:20:18 AM timmy

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dalai, I had a similar experience at Point Perp last year.

I was watching a friends redpoint attempt from the top of an adjoing cliff. She clipped the last bolt comfortably, and headed for the crux. But as she climbed past the quickdraw, somehow the rope unclipped itself without her knowing. I looked down at her belayer who also realised what had happened. After some silent gesuring at each other as to what to do, he unclipped from his anchor and prepared for a run. A fall from above the draw would see a very significant fall.

The climber sketched her way up, and all I could do was watch. She finally slaps the top of the cliff and hauls over and sits down and has the biggest grin on her face, happy that she'd ticked.

I ran over and congratulated her, but then said "....but look at the last clip" and we both looked down. Needless to say, she was silent for a while, but then the grin came back onto her face like it was nothing.