I've only been leading for about 18 months, to be honest, tried to start trad few times but not been confident enough with placements. 2nd a bit but not much, doesn't do it for me. I've led sport up to 20 / 21.
Back to topic, the thought of onsight trad has always been my goal, however not as you guys talk, I am not a great fan of guide books. I want to walk up to a crag, face, what ever and just climb it. This means falls and back offs. There is no real way to train in advance for climbing like that other than previous climbing. I guess I will struggle to acheive that result because untill I can trad lead in mid 20's I'll be bailing off most things ( what I call bail you might suggest BELAY). Because of the Sport thing I have unwittingly found myself on 21's ( check the guide when I get home out of interest) but I want to just rock up to a crag, known or unknown and climb it. I have no interest in ethics or history but it may come later. I want to climb for ME, selfish I know, however I am happy to say G'day when we pass.
Ralph |