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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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The Art of Onsight Trad Climbing |
10-Nov-2005 At 8:16:00 PM |
peck
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Message |
This is the first thread that has prompted me to contribute, and I have found it really interesting.
I started climbing around 20 yrs ago.A day or two top-roping at Werri Gorge or on the Plaque and then you were off 2nding someone more experienced up Bard or Arachnus.
After a few days/w-ends following routes, working your way up to the high teens, and of course the required top-rope attempt of Little Thor, it was time to give leading a try.
By "leading", I of course mean "trad onsighting".That was what everyone did, well most mere mortals anyway.Back then "French Ethics" were reserved for the elite.Sure none of my friends ever climbed harder than the low 20's , but we were all at least generally attempting to onsight everything we climbed.
Part of the fun of a day out back then was watching your friends trying to overcome their fear ( read wussyness! ) and encourage them to go for a move, assuming you felt that they felt confident in their gear.
And as far as the leader falling goes.......that was how we pushed our grades..... if your not flying...your not trying!!!!!!
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