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General Climbing Discussion

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Campus board training 10-Nov-2005 At 11:12:50 AM Gunta Skirtpulla

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For developing contact strength, high levels of neuromuscular recruitment and opened hand finger
strength (when using finger pad width rungs), the campus board has no equal.

The web link below will give you all the info you really need.
Rich Simpson, like Wolfgang used the campus board extensively to send Action Direct.

https://www.moonclimbing.com/index.php?form_action=school&school_id=19

Coming from a sports science background, the one thing about campus training that is not that well known
is how power is actually developed and most importantly maintained/increased in the future. Assume you
were to campus train twice a week, roughly the 1st 4 weeks or so (depends from person to person) your
gains are prodominantly neurological. Once you train beyond that month, thats when the tendon and
muscular strength gains really start to come into their own. With that being the case, if your goal is to be
pushing the grades, then making campus training a regular part of your training routine is a good option.
However, if you're a weekend climber like most people and only can train twice a week, then campusing
should become part of a well rounded routine that includes bouldering, climbing routes in the gym and
other climbing related exercises. (eg. Tues - campus/boulder, Thur - power end (routes or boulder
problems). If you're prodominantly a boulderer, then campusing will form a big part of your training.

When weather (like northern hemi winters. ie- Peak District/sheffield training scene) or forced time away
(babies, renovations and other life joys) keeps you off rock, then you can dedicate more time to
campusing.

From personal experience, I think most people don't really need to be using a campus board until they
hit grade 27 (bouldering and power endurance training is sufficient to get to this grade) and if you're
wanting to push past V6+.

The one thing I've learnt recently which is reinforced with the info on the moonclimbing website by Rich is
focus on quality with your training. After a good warm up, a campus session shouldn't go for longer than
an hour.

cheers