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General Climbing Discussion

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The Art of Onsight Trad Climbing 10-Nov-2005 At 10:16:40 AM anthonycuskelly

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I've only just started leading trad, but I'm turning to the dark side alright! I even prefer a good hex to a good cam placement.

1) If trad onsight climbing is your deal, how do you train? What techniques do you find most effective? At the moment, placing far more gear than I think I need, just to get the practice in and get quicker and better at placing.

2) How do you differentiate the emotions and feelings you experience on a trad onsight vs. your first crack at a bolted line? On bolts I just check where my bolts are and check likely fall spots. If there's trad, then I spend far more time looking at possible gear placements than moves. More exhiliarating on trad, as well as scary!

3) Where does the future of the onsight trad lead appear to be going? (does not include preplaced trad gear) What role will it play for future generations? Oh I plan on keeping onsight trad leading going, I'll grow a beard to stroke in the next few years... but seriously, there will always be people who prefer the adventure and self-reliance of trad leading over grade-chasing on bolts (I like a nice combination!).

4) What sort of mental prepartion and strategies do you employ when you are getting ready for an onsight trad lead at the edge (or beyond) of your current abilities? I haven't yet, need more practice getting those little wires in...

5) How do you get to that next level? The next grade? By climbing more.

6) Can the leader fall? Has this ethos changed? Oh hell yeah, it's just not a great idea if your gear's sketchy (duh). Mind you, I don't like falling at all, and haven't done it on trad yet. I think just because the gear's getting so much better, we can get away with falling on trad now, whereas previously it was likely to lead to all sorts of nastiness.