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General Climbing Discussion

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The Art of Onsight Trad Climbing 9-Nov-2005 At 5:09:28 PM gumbywankenobi

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Puuurrrrr. Just reading about this style of climbing makes me happy. I'm not even going to try to answer the questions directly I'm just going to revel in the discussion. Mmmmmm. I don't climb hard and I don't really aim at grades so pulling crazy moves or knocking off numbers does not always float my boat but wandering up to a likely line, giving it the once over like a cute guy in a bar and then figuring out how to get me and my rack up it gives me the utmost pleasure. I'm particularly enjoying being even less reliant on the guidebooks lately and actually learning how to size a climb up just by looking - without a page long description (or any sometimes). Gets me into some interesting spots but what a feeling when I nail it. And placements! Don't get me started on a good placement! I honestly think it is possible to fall in love with a well placed hex - especially when you REALLY needed it. Depending where you are too I suppose there's that slightly more 'wild' feel about it. I personally feel its just such a more well rounded climbing experience. I don't mind clipping bolts but I always feel just a little bit like I didn't really do it all. I don't know what the future of it is in broader terms but I hope my future in it is loooong. I don't know about falling either - I don't like falling up stuff - I mean, its been there for 40 million years already so it'll probably be there next week/month/year/whenever I am ready for it. I pull the rope and start afresh or come back later. Other people can do whatever other people want (except bolt my cracklines...grrrr) I'm going daydreaming now. Thanks for a good topic :)