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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

The Art of Onsight Trad Climbing 9-Nov-2005 At 3:58:40 PM psd

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I'm fairly new to the game, but I can relate to JBM's view on this one - there's nothing in climbing more satisfying for me than an onsight trad lead - these are the climb's that I think about when I should be working!!

On 9/11/2005 JBM wrote:
>1) If trad onsight climbing is your deal, how do you train? What techniques
>do you find most effective?

When I think of it I try and consciously climb in a way that is as energy efficient as possible, ie trying for static, gentle, straight arm movements rather than more powerful options (even when these may be the more obvious solutions to a particular move). I know you should do this all the time but in my head this style relates particularly to trad climbing. I am also trying to learn to look for and use rests as much as possible.

I've also found that for me it has been worth training my 'lock-off' strength as opposed to pull-up strength. Again useful for all climbing but particularly trad leading.

>2) How do you differentiate the emotions and feelings you experience on
>a trad onsight vs. your first crack at a bolted line?

I think a greater degree of mental control is required for trad. Both from the perspective of staying calm when you get run-out and pumped and also from thinking through the mechanics of gear placements.

>3) Where does the future of the onsight trad lead appear to be going?
>(does not include preplaced trad gear) What role will it play for future
>generations?

No expert, but it seems like there is enough resistance to bolting routes that can be done on natural gear that trad is not going to disappear in a hurry.

>4) What sort of mental prepartion and strategies do you employ when you
>are getting ready for an onsight trad lead at the edge (or beyond) of your
>current abilities?

Lots of steady breathing, methodically racking up and calm thoughts ... oh, and chalking up loads too!

>5) How do you get to that next level? The next grade?

I'm not the one to comment on this one.

>6) Can the leader fall? Has this ethos changed?

Still new enough that I wouldn't want to take a big fall on my gear - I guess the question is should I change my attitude with more experience?