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The Art of Onsight Trad Climbing 9-Nov-2005 At 1:48:07 PM JBM

Message

This is why I started climbing.

Originally the allure was adventure routes in an alpine setting. The draw being the wild environment and the mixed terrain. The journey upwards into the unknown...the feeling of total commitment.

Over time (and with my relocation to Oz) my focus has shifted to the art of the Onsight Trad Lead. This passion was re-kindled by a couple of articles I have read about the legendary Yuji Hirayama (Climbing and Alpinist) and his herculean efforts to onsight some of the hardest climbs in the world.

Being the average climber that I am - I still get an enormous thrill from standing below an unknown trad route, described only by a guide book and word of mouth beta, and sending. I simply do not have the patience for the project-based redpoint nor do I get the same thrill from clipping bolts.

I recognise that this may be a dying attitude or philosophy driven by increased media coverage of the "hardman sends" and the new climbing generation's obsession with the bolted redpoint.(Different strokes for different folks) However, I'd like to solicit some views from the forum as they relate to onsight trad climbing. Specifically, I'd appreciate your ideas/views in a couple of areas:

1) If trad onsight climbing is your deal, how do you train? What techniques do you find most effective?

2) How do you differentiate the emotions and feelings you experience on a trad onsight vs. your first crack at a bolted line?

3) Where does the future of the onsight trad lead appear to be going? (does not include preplaced trad gear) What role will it play for future generations?

4) What sort of mental prepartion and strategies do you employ when you are getting ready for an onsight trad lead at the edge (or beyond) of your current abilities?

5) How do you get to that next level? The next grade?

6) Can the leader fall? Has this ethos changed?

I am curious to know any and all views on any of the above questions.