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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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The greatest sandbags in Victoria 12-Aug-2003 At 2:21:02 PM ness

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The unknown factor will always be there the first time you are on something - ie, the onsight attempt. Independant of seeing the rock ahead sometimes too - you may not always see holds, if they are tiny, or its undervertical with no chalk, or you're blind, or whatever.

Exposure or the unknown factor don't really add to the grade in my opinion, the moves are still the same. If the pro is difficult, such as stuffing a nut into your only hold or crap like that then it can add to the difficulty of the climb, to onsight or redpoint. If you have pre-placed gear and are pink pointing (as most hard natural ascents are done) then it doesn't matter, or if you have worked out a funky & efficient way of getting the piece in, then it just becomes another move.

The protection and exposure of a climb aren't affiliated in my mind.

Ness