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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

OmegaPacific biners - a word of warning 9-Sep-2005 At 9:50:52 PM ShinToe Warrior

Message

On 9/09/2005 gordoste wrote:
>Apparently some Queensland Uni of Technology guys did a test... you can
>see the results here. Scary!
>
Looks as if it was some QUT climbing club people, not particularly any kind of study or research.

Quote from one of the QUT people(the one who posted the 'scary' photo):
"mind you who belays with the rope across the gate of their binar?
that is what worries me about the story. where the binar is loaded in the pic is the only place that it can
happen and it only happens when the force is applied at a tangent to the actual gate.
the binar isn't designed to be used that way
to be honest im not too concerned about it"

Sure, there is major rope eating potential when the 'biner is oriented to produce the cross-loading from hell,
which would be bad anyway. Yep, that's it folks, never cross-load your karabiners. If you don't happen to
like one particular screw-gate, just USE SOMETHING ELSE.