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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Poll Option

Votes

Graph

I require a belay to leave flat ground

Dont solo 'routes' but do unroped access scrambles

42%

I solo established routes graded 5 or less

I solo established routes graded 10 or less

I solo to within 10 grades of my roped limit

15%

I solo to within 7 grades of my roped limit

19%

I solo to within 4 grades of my roped limit

I solo at or near my roped limit

Topic Date User

Soloing 10-Aug-2005 At 4:37:59 PM Take!

Message

WM,
A very simple but thought provoking thread for me. I never really got anything from unroped climbing, anything less than "at or very close your roped grade" soloing didn't mean a lot, especially the "rope rehearsed massively, 7 grades under the limit solo".
Hence, if asked I would put myself in the "I wouldn't free solo climb". I paid good money for my gear so I may as well use it, plus (after various bad injuries) I have realised i'm a slow healer and don't need to tempt fate.... (this now includes manky ankles and highball bouldering)

However, now I think about it I have to tick "I solo up to grade 5 etc"... This is very rare for me, and only for access in/out etc but it did make me think about this (unnecessary) behaviour.

This 'not-soloing' I do usually happens at the start of the climbing day (when i'm cold, not fully switched on etc), or at the end of the day (knackered, thinking about beer and not switched on at all). Plus i'm mostly doing it with a pack and trail shoes.
So, I'll definately re-think when looking for the line of least resistance to the carpark/pub.

*To clarify the "rope rehearsed massively, 7 grades under the limit solo" comment...
To me this is similar to being on my motorbike lapping the race track and then taking my helmet off to do a lap that is 7 seconds slower than my (at limit) lap record. Really the only risk is if something breaks, which is out of my control at the time anyway... so what does it mean?
(BTW no offence meant - each to his own).