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General Climbing Discussion

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Mt Feathertop 11-May-2005 At 1:32:11 PM tundra

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"For a fun time out", from the saddle between the Little Feathertop and feathertop ski/board (optional) down the bowl on the far right of the east face to bottom of chutes, then cut left across the face somewhere between the trees and the rock ridges above to the large gully (avalanche gully) below the summit ridge propper ('bout 800m). Plod up 'til (100m+) a short rock band appears on the right (can dissapear in a heavy season). Traverse under this then over it and up to below a Steep wall with a pillar on the left and a narrow left leaning chute (80 degree / 1m wide) and corner on the right. Belay from cams at the pillar, traverse up and into chute (place a good medium knifeblade in horizontal at initial steepening, dig around) then run it out to the tombstone for semihanging sling belay (35m). Steeply up onto prow on left to straddle the ridge - along this to until it joins onto the face of the main ridge and belay. Traverse up left almost a rope length to base of second wall and belay, then up snow choked corners and ledges to top of this and beyond to crest of main ridge. Up this (60m) past some seeper sections to flatness beneath cornice. Boulder the cornice here (relatively easy even in big seasons 2/4m) to the summit. (cornice tricks are throwing tools on end of rope to dislodge the lip - stand back). Route Tops out on true summit on our maillands most 'alpine' profile peak' for full summit kick. Then ski down west ridge or west face (exhibition) to saddle. hmmm fun! Get up real early (5am) for full value (thaw-freeze) prickly pointing perfection (late August-Sept following a clear day & night, you might have to wait around for this) or do it in a storm for Pantagonianesque experience.
Check it! VGC. 3Stars ONO.